How To Use This Bibliography: Organization and Catalogueing


Entries. The basic bibliographic form used to catalogue the entries is as follows:

 AUTHOR LAST NAME, First name. Title. Subtitle. Edition. Volumes. Place of Publication: Publisher, Date. [CSROT Number].

- Volumes (with subtitles).

- "Series title" number.

- 1st edition or publication (if not the edition catalogued here).

- Collation: Pages. Size (width x height; in centimeters). Our binding. Illustrations; Plates; Maps; Charts, Tables; etc. Special edition information.

- Annotation (What, Where and When; Illustrative matter).

- Other editions or directly related works.

- Author biographical information.

- Our copy: specific characteristics of our copy, or if not our copy, the place and shelfmark of copy catalogued


Organization. The more than 9,000 records in the database initially will be presented as a straightforward "MS-Word" file which can be searched using your browser's standard search function "Ctrl + F", but in the near future, it will be available as a fully-searchable database by multple keywords, values and criteria.


Alphabetization. All entries are alphabetized by author, then title, by word, not letter. Titles are alphabetized by first word other than an article or preposition, according to the rules of the language concerned. For purposes of alphabetization, the "Ä" is treated as "AE", the "Ö" as "OE", and the "Ü" as "UE".

The first letter of all the words in the proper names of organizations, institutions, publishers, etc., in all languages, however, are all capitalized as in English spelling. Otherwise, spelling rules follow that of the language concerned.


Abbreviations. Wherever possible, we have used abbreviations to make reading and browsing as easy and quick as possible, being given the wealth —and sometimes, quite frankly, the repetitiveness— of the information. Although most of the abbreviations used are standard, a complete list will be found below under "Abbreviations".

The abbreviations used for countries, and the 50 states of the United States, follow standard international postal codes, unless noted otherwise noted in the abbreviations.


Transliterations. Wherever possible, all works in non-western languages, such as Cyrillic, Greek, Japanese and Chinese, have been transliterated using English phonetic spelling. When this has not been possible, we have simply noted the language in brackets, ie "[Russian title]", and have provided a translation or description of the contents; this has occasionally been done when there is a parallel title in a western European language. This lacking information will be provided in the future.


Authors. Family names of authors are given in CAPITALS. Wherever possible, we have given priority to individual authors or editors, when known, over corporative, collective or institutional authors. Even when we are not sure of an author, we have always tried to provide a name in brackets with a question mark, ie "[SMITH, John?]". This is also the case for dates and places of publication. Sometimes this information is provided with a reference to another bibliographic source.

Anonymous works without any known individual or collective author are catalogued alphabetically by title. We do not consider Mr or Mrs Anonymous as an author. Occasionally, we have considered the publisher as an author, especially in the case of some pre-nineteenth century works, and pictorial surveys or "color plate" books, such as, for example, Henri ERNST, who published many portfolios of beautiful stencil (pochoir)-colored textile illustrations in Paris during the 1920s.

In some cases we have provided a "See:" or "See Also:" reference for authors or works with variant names (usually married names), spellings, pseudonyms or titles.

The authors of early works are given in their vernacular, not in their Latin spelling, wherever possible, ie Baïf not Bayfius, Vergil not Vergilius, Ferrari not Ferrarius, etc., but variant spellings are often given whenever possible ("Also known as:") as part of the annotation.


Collations. We have attempted to provide detailed descriptions of pages and editions, as this is important information for catalogueing —in some cases, identifying— and determining if a book is complete, especially pre-nineteenth-century works.

Likewise for detailed descriptions of visual matter: line illustrations, engravings, black and white illustrations, color illustrations and plates, maps, tables, etc., as this type of information is often needed by the textile researcher to determine if the work in question has enough visual information to make it worth searching out and consulting.

Plates refer to a full page of illustrated matter with a caption, whereas illustration refers to an illustration on a page consisting primarily of text.

Format sizes are given in centimeters, width x height, contrary to standard practice, and special edition information is also provided whenever possible.

All volume and series numbers are given in Arabic numerals, unless this could lead to confusion, in which case, the original Roman numerals are used. However, Roman numerals are always used when they appear as the publication date on the title pages of early books or as part of a title or subtitle.


Descriptions and Annotations. We have provided for virtually all the entries the minimum bibliographic data of author, title, sub-title, place and date of publication, but most works are given far more detailed descriptions, especially works we consider to be of particular importance.

Annotations are intended to be as descriptive as possible and get the reader directly into the heart of the work by listing, summarizing or describing the contents of the work, especially concerning the type of textiles involved. At very least, we have tried to provide the "what, where and when" of a work concerning the (1) general type of work (exhibition catalogue, dissertation, report, etc); (2) the subject of the work (what type of textiles, from which country or region, and the historic period treated); and (3) the amount of textiles described and shown. Furthermore, we have always tried to indicate whether the work contains footnotes, bibliography, glossary, indexes or special illustrative or appendix matter.

Furthermore, at the beginning and end of many entries we have also included our personal subjective opinion of the work, ranging from such laudatory descriptions such as "authoritative", "encyclopedic", "comprehensive", "exhaustive", "systematic", "major work", etc., to more neutral phrases such as "a scholarly study", "a history and description of", "an introductory", "a pictorial survey", "a general introduction", etc.

However, we have usually not annotated a work whose title clearly describes its contents; this is often the case, for example, with royal edicts and governmental laws.


Editions. All works are first editions unless otherwise indicated. However, if our edition is not the first edition, in virtually all cases we have provided the date of the first edition, as well as the place and publisher if not the same as in the edition of the work catalogued.


References. References to other specialized bibliographies have been provided wherever possible, at the end of the entry in an abbreviated form. In general, we have systematically tried to provide references to the Bibliotheca Tinctoria (BT) for early works on dyeing, Creswell (CRES) for Islamic-related material, COLAS for costume, Chamberlin (GARB) and Arntzen-Rainwater (GLAH) for applied arts titles, Ferguson (FERG) for early books on science and technology, Franklin (FRAN) for English-language books on the crafts, antiques and collecting, Lipperheide (LIPP) for early books on costume and textiles, Lotz (LOTZ) for early lace and embroidery pattern books, and occasionally, Sestay (SEST) for modern "how-to" books on embroidery, and Enay & Azadi ((E&A) and O'Bannon (ORB) for recent rug publications. The complete references to which these abbreviations refer can be below under "Bibliographic References".


Titles of Early Books. In the case of books published between the fifteenth and early nineteenth century, wherever possible, titles are given a close typographic transcription of the complete title page, including capitals, italics and boldface characters. For most works, volume subtitles, collations and annotations are also provided.


Analytical Entries. We have included many analytical entries, articles, extracts and offprints, as these are a very important component of the textile literature, especially for highly specialized, as well as for early, textile studies. A single, individual article published in a review or anthology is catalogued by its author, whereas multiple articles published in a review or anthology are catalogued under the title of the review or the editor of the anthology.


Anthologies and Reviews. Wherever possible, we have tried to provide the author and title of all relevant textile texts appearing as part of a review or anthology.


Royal Edicts, Governmental Laws and Regulations, and collections thereof, are alphabetized under modern English spelling of the country as it exists today, followed by the specific city or region within the country, if clearly relevant, then date of publication, regardless of title. These works are catalogued by caption title, the first sentence(s) of the work, unless a author and/or title is clearly indicated somewhere in the work. Royal or governmental officials acting in an official capacity, such as Colbert for example, are not considered authors.

Belgium is given here as being synonymous with Flanders, of which it was, in fact, only part along with northern France. Furthermore, Iran is used instead of Persia, and Turkey is usually used instead of "Asia Minor" or "Anatolia". Although the term "middle east" is used frequently here as well as elsewhere as a means to link Asia to the Mediterranean region and Europe, it should be kept in mind that this region also refers to "western Asia".


Collection Catalogues. The institution or private individual owning the collection will be considered a second author, after the name of the individual author or editor, if the institution's name does not appear elsewhere in the entry.


Auction Catalogues. General auction catalogues without a clear author, editor or collection name, are catalogued under the name of the auction house, then date of auction, regardless of title.