Footnotes

 

1. For some elements of this history through the middle ages, see the references in Charles Singer. The Earliest Chemical Industry. An Essay in the Historical Relations of Economics & Technology Illustrated from the Alum Trade. London 1948 [CSROT 2422], p308-22; and the references in the introduction by Benjamin A. Rifkin on the early literature of the crafts, in Hans Sachs and Yost Amman. The Book of Trades. New York 1973 [CSROT 2739], p ix-xlviii.

 

2. Polydore Vergil (Urbino, ca 1470 - 1555). De Inventoribus Rerum. Libri Tres. Venice: Christophorus de Pensis de Mandello, 31 Aug 1499. In the third part of this work there is a section on the history of fibers and weaving, which in our opinion is the first attempt to outline the history of textiles.


3. The basic bibliography of this literature is by Arthur Lotz. Bibliographie der Modelbücher. Stuttgart 1933. It was reprinted in 1963 [CSROT 1157].

4. See the bibliography by John Ferguson. Bibliographical Notes on Histories of Inventions and Books of Secrets. London 1981 [CSROT 2900]; this was first published separately as a series of articles between 1882 - 1911.

5. The major eighteenth-century project on this subject was initiated by the French Académie Royale des Sciences, entitled the "Descriptions des arts et métiers", a series of publications which included about 15 volumes on textiles, dyeing and clothing; for a detailed history and description see: Arthur H. Cole; George B. Watts. The Handicrafts of France as Recorded in the Descriptions des arts et métiers 1761 - 1788. Boston 1952 [CSROT 2489].


6. See, for example, the monumental work of Jacques Savary des Bruslons. Dictionnaire Universel de Commerce. Paris 1723-1730 [CSROT 781], published in many editions and translations; as well as the numerous works of Paul Jakob Marperger cited in the 4-volume The Kress Library of Business and Economics. Catalogue. Boston 1940-1957 [CSROT 2536].

7. See especially Jean Michel Benaven. Le Caissier Italien. [Lyon?] 1787-1789 [CSROT 3271], who in describing the currency and commercial practices of each locality also included the name and standard measure of its local cloth product.

8. See, for example, the historical entries in the bibliography in volume 3 of W. Cunnington. The Growth of English Industry and Commerce. Cambridge 1915-1917 [CSROT 2040], as well as the many scattered entries throughout the 4-volume The Kress Library of Business and Economics. Catalogue. Boston 1940-1957 [CSROT 2536].


9. See in this work: FRANCE. LYON. Moyens des prévost des marchands et eschevins de la ville de Lyon. [Lyon? ca 1597-1598?] [CSROT 857].

10. Lazare Baïf (1496? - 1547). Lazari Bayfii Viri Doctissimi Commentarius de Vestium Generibus & Vocabulis. [ca 1530?] [CSROT 4300]. The 1535 version edited by Estienne is considered to be one of the very first books written expressly for children.

11. See René Colas. Bibliographie Générale du Costume et de la Mode. Paris 1933 [CSROT 3510]; Hiliare and Meyer Hiler. Bibliography of Costume. A Dictionary Catalog of About Eight Thousand Books and Periodicals. 1939; reprinted 1994? [CSROT 4326]; and Katalog der Freiherrlich von Lipperheid'schen Kostümbibliothek. Berlin 1896-1905, revised and enlarged by Eva Nienholdt and Gretel Wagner-Neumann. Katalog der Lipperheideschen Kostümbibliothek. Berlin 1965 [CSROT 3413].

12. See, for example, the illustrated published work of Hans Sachs and Yost Amman. The Book of Trades. New York 1973 [CSROT 2739], first published as Eygentliche Beschreibung Aller Stände auff Erden, Frankfurt 1568; Wilhelm Treue, ed. Das Hausbuch der Mendelschen Zwölfbrüderstiftung zu Nürnberg. Deutsche Handwerkerbilder des 15. und 16. Jahrhunderts. Munich 1965 [CSROT 4072], a late medieval illustrated manuscript; and the comprehensive verbal description by Thomasso Garzoni. La Piazza Universale di Tutte le Professioni del Mondo. Venice [1592] [CSROT 3749], first published in 1585.

13. Conrad Gesner. Pandectarvm Sive Partitionum Universalium. Zurich 1548 [CSROT x5079]; Francesco Alunno. Della Fabrica del Mondo. Venice 1588 [CSROT 2073], first edition 1548; Charles du Fresne Du Cange. Glossarium ad Scriptores Mediae & Infimae Latinitatis. Paris 1678 [CSROT 2096]; Denis Diderot and Jean de Rond d'Alembert; Jacques Proust. L'encyclopédie Diderot et d'Alembert. Planches et Commentaires. Paris 1985 [CSROT 4799], plates first published Paris 1762-1772; Encyclopaedia Britannica; or, a Dictionary of Arts and Sciences, Compiled Upon a New Plan. Edinburgh 1768-1771 [CSROT 4379]; and Pierre Jaubert; Philippe Macquer. Dictionnaire Raisonné Universel des Arts et Métiers. Paris 1773 [CSROT 2541], first published in 1766.

14. [Peter Busch?]. Curieuse Nachricht Von Einer neuen Art Seide / Welche Von den Spinnen=Weben zubereitet wird. Frankfurt; Leipzig 1711 [CSROT 4850]; Gianfrancesco Giorgetti. Il Filugello, o Sia il Baco da Seta. Poemetto in Libri III. Venice 1752 [CSROT 3221]; John Reynolds Forster. Liber Singularis de Bysso Antiquorum. London 1776 [CSROT 3185]; and Adamo Fabbroni. Del Bombice e del Bisso degli Antichi. Perugia 1782 [CSROT 3217].

15. Charles Le Brun. Tapisseries du Roy, Ou Sont Répresentez Les Quatre Saisons. Paris 1679 (see the detailed study by Fabian Stein. Charles Le Brun. La Tenture de l'Histoire du Roy. Worms 1985 [CSROT 4760]); and John Pine. The Tapestry Hangings of the House of Lords. London 1739.

16. G.R. Porter. A Treatise on the Origin, Progressive Improvement, and Present State of the Silk Manufacture. London 1831 [CSROT 1959]; James Yates. Textrinum Antiquorum. London 1843 [CSROT 1325]; Clinton G. Gilroy. The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances. New York 1845 [CSROT 2910], and The Art of Weaving by Hand and by Power. London 1845 [CSROT 4388]; Jean Marie Pardessus. Mémoire sur le Commerce de la Soie chez les Anciens Antérieurement au VIe Siècle de l'Ère Chrétienne. Paris 1842 [CSROT 2233]; and Ernest Pariset. Histoire de la Soie. Paris 1862-1865 [CSROT 303].

17. Gravenor Henson. The Civil, Political and Mechanical History of the Framework-Knitters, in Europe and America. Volume I. Nottingham 1831; reprinted as: Hensons's History of the Framework Knitters. New York 1970 [CSROT 2908].

18. Charles Cahier; Arthur Martin. Mélanges d'Archéologie, d'Histoire et de Littérature. Paris 1847-1856 [CSROT 1548]; Charles de Linas. Anciens Vêtements Sacerdotaux et Anciens Tissus Conservés en France. Paris 1860-1862 [CSROT 957]; and François-Xavier Michel [Francisque-Michel]. Recherches sur le Commerce, la Fabrication et l'Usage des Étoffes des Soies, d'Or et d'Argent et Autres Tissus Précieux en Occident Principalement en France Pendant le Moyen Age. Paris 1852-1854 [CSROT 718] (reprinted in 2001 by International General, New York and Amsterdam).

19. Franz Bock. Geschichte der liturgischen Gewänder des Mittelalters. Bonn 1859-1871 [CSROT 3200]; Friedrich Fischbach. Die Geschichte der Textilkunst nebst Text zu den 160 Tafeln des Werkes Ornamente der Gewebe. Hanau 1883 [CSROT 1915]; Julius Lessing. Die Gewebe-Sammlung de Königlichen Kunstgewerbe-Museums. Berlin [1900-1909?] [CSROT 3000]; Emil Kumsch. Stoffmuster des XVI. - XVIII. Jahrhunderts. Dresden 1888-1895 [CSROT 4124]; Paul Schulze. Verzeichniss von Ornement- und Vorlage-Werken für Musterzeichner und Fabrikanten .... Berlin [1893?] [CSROT x5090]; Theodor Hampe; Hans Stegmann. Katalog der Gewebesammlung des Germanischen Nationalmuseums. Nuremberg 1896-1901 [CSROT 2743]; and Otto von Falke. Kunstgeschichte der Seidenweberei. Berlin 1913 [CSROT 2135].

20. Daniel Rock. Textile Fabrics. A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collection of Church-Vestments, Dresses, Silk Stuffs, Needlework and Tapestries, Forming that Section of the Museum. London 1870 [CSROT 767]; Alan Summerly Cole. Ornament in European Silks. London 1899 [CSROT 1811]; and Alfred Frank Kendrick. Catalogue of Early Medieval Woven Fabrics. London 1925 [CSROT 218], and Catalogue of Muhammadan Textiles of the Medieval Period. London 1924 [CSROT 1969], among his many other works on textiles, embroidery and carpets.

21. Joseph Karabacek. Die persische Nadelmalerei Susandschird. Leipzig 1881 [CSROT 3150], and Über einige Begennungen mittelalterlicher Gewebe. Vienna 1882; Alois Riegl. Textilkunst. Stuttgart 1893 [CSROT 3082a]; and Moriz Dreger. Künstlerische Entwicklung der Weberei und Stickerei. Vienna 1904 [CSROT 1862].

22. Isabelle Errera. Catalogue d'Étoffes Anciennes et Modernes. Troisème Édition Orné de 1000 Photogravures. Brussels 1927 [CSROT 569], first edition 1901.

23. Raymond Cox. L'art de Décorer les Tissus d'Après les Collections du Musée Historique de la Chambre de Commerce de Lyon. Paris; Lyon 1900 [CSROT 3569]; and Gaston Migeon. Les Arts du Tissu. Paris 1909 [CSROT 271].

24. Francisco Miquel y Badia. "Historia del Tejido, del Bordado y del Tapiz", Barcelona 1897 [CSROT 2427].

25. Joseph Philippe Auguste Rey. Études pour Servir à l'Histoire des Châles. Paris 1823 [CSROT 2626]; The Countess of Wilton. The Art of Needle-Work, From the Earliest Ages. London 1840 [CSROT 2923]; Achille Jubinal. Les Anciennes Tapisseries Historiées, ou Collections des Monumens les Plus Remarquables de ce Genre qui Nous Soient Restés du Moyen-Age, à partir du XIe Siècle au XVIe Siècle. Paris 1838-1839 [CSROT 6206]; Fanny Palliser. History of Lace. London 1865 [CSROT 998]; Julius Lessing. Alt orientalische Teppichmuster nach Bildern und Originalen des XV. - XVI. Jahrhunderts. Berlin 1877, reprinted 1923 [CSROT 2709]; and Louis de Farcy. La Broderie du XIe Siècle jusqu'à Nos Jours. D'après Spécimens Authentiques et les Anciens Inventaires. Angers 1890-1900-1919 [CSROT 129].

26. Concerning the formation of the applied arts museums in nineteenth-century Germany, see the important and unique historical study by Barbara Mundt. Die deutschen Kunstgewerbemuseen im 19. Jahrhundert. Munich 1974 [CSROT 4756].

27. For some background on Bock in relation to the Trier collection, see the text by Brigitt Borkopp "Franz Bock und Wilhelm Rautenstrauch. Zur Geschichte der koptischen Sammlung in Trier", pages 16-25, in: Dieter Ahrens; [et al]. Die koptischen Textilien der Sammlung Wilhelm Rautenstrauch in Städtischen Museum Simeonstift Trier. Trier 1989 [CSROT 5032].

28. The history of textile collections and the formation of textile museums remains to be written, but for some aspects see the chapter by Karel Otavsky, "Alte Gewebe als Sammel Objekte", pages 111-28, in: his Alte Gewebe und ihre Geschichte. Ein Lese- und Bilderbuch. Riggisberg 1987 [CSROT 2161].

29. Concerning the Musée de l'Impression sur Étoffes de Mulhouse, see the text of Jacqueline Jacqué in: Bulletin Trimestriel de la Société Industrielle de Mulhouse (Mulhouse), 761, 4, 1975 [CSROT 4571]; for an outline history of the Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon, see Jean-Michel Tuchscherer and Gabriel Vial. La Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon. Introduction Historique, Artistique et Technique. Lyon 1977 [CSROT 405], and the early report by Natalis Rondot. L'enseignement Necessaire à l'Industrie de la Soie. Écoles et Musées. Lyon 1877 [CSROT 859].

30. See, for example, L. Douet d'Arcq. Comptes de l'Argenterie des Rois de France aux XIVe Siècle. Paris 1851 [CSROT 1974], and Nouveau Recueil des Comptes de l'Argenterie des Rois de France. Paris 1874 [CSROT 1045]; Jules Labarte. Inventaire du Mobilier de Charles V, Roi de France. Paris 1879; and the material in Victor Gay and Henri Stein. Glossaire Archéologique du Moyen Age et de la Renaissance. Paris 1887-1928 [CSROT 592].

31. Leslie Gordon Lawrie. A Bibliography of Dyeing and Textile Printing Comprising a List of Books from the Sixteenth Century to the Present Time. London 1949; Franco Brunello. L'arte della Tintura nella Storia dell'Umanità. Vicenza 1968 [CSROT 492], which also includes a dictionary, p329-99; and Moshe Ron. Bibliotheca Tinctoria. Jerusalem 1991 [CSROT 3566]; and Marc-Edouard Enay; Siawosch Azadi. Einhundert Jahre Orientteppich-Literatur 1877 - 1977. Bibliographie der Bücher und Kataloge. Hannover 1977 [CSROT 1304]; George W. O'Bannon. Oriental Rugs. A Bibliography. Metuchen, NJ 1994 [CSROT 4599]; Dieter Kuhn. Literaturverzeichnis zur Textilkunde Chinas und zur allgemeinen Webtechnologie. Wiesbaden 1977 [CSROT 2285]; Eugène van Overloop. Catalogue des Ouvrages se Rapportant à l'Industrie de la Dentelle. Brussels 1906 [CSROT 2994]; Gertrude Whiting. A Lace Guide for Makers and Collectors. With Bibliography and Five-Language Nomenclature. New York 1920 [CSROT 2837]; Arthur Lotz. Op. Cit.; René Colas, Op. Cit.; Hiliare and Meyer Hiler. Op. Cit.; Eva Nienholdt and Gretel Wagner-Neumann. Op. Cit.; and Michael C. Howard. Textiles of Southeast Asia. An Annotated and Illustrated Bibliography. Bangkok 1994 [CSROT 4745].

32. Keppel Archibald Cameron Creswell. A Bibliography of the Architecture, Art and Crafts of Islam to 1st Jan. 1960. Cairo 1961, reprinted 1978 [CSROT 1116], with supplements in 1973 [CSROT 1112] and 1984 [CSROT 2199]; The Kress Library of Business and Economics. Catalogue. Boston 1940-1967 [CSROT 2536], with several reprints; Mary Walls Chamberlin. Guide to Art Reference Books. Chicago 1959 [CSROT 3043]; Etta Arntzen; Robert Rainwater. Guide to the Literature of Art History. Chicago; London 1980 [CSROT 4633]; Donald L. Ehresmann. Applied and Decorative Arts. A Bibliographic Guide. Second Edition. Englewood, CO 1993 [CSROT x4882]; and Linda Campbell Franklin. Antiques and Collectibles. A Bibliography of Works in English, 16th Century to 1976. Metuchen, NJ; London 1978 [CSROT 4879].

 
33. Robert James Forbes. Studies in Ancient Technology. Volume IV. 2nd rev ed. Leiden 1964 [CSROT 958]; Henri Silbermann. Die Seide. Ihre Geschichte, Gewinnung und Verarbeitung. Leipzig [1897] [CSROT 3099]; Geoffrey and John G. Turnbull. A History of the Calico Printing Industry of Great Britain. Altrincham 1951 [CSROT 2419]; Maurice Lombard. Les Textiles dans le Monde Musulman du VIIe au XIIe Siècle. Paris 1978 [CSROT 688]; Marta Hoffmann. The Warp-Weighted Loom. 2nd ed. 1974 [CSROT 1189]; Elizabeth J. W. Barber. Prehistoric Textiles. The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages. Princeton 1991 [CSROT 4195]; Florence L. May. Silk Textiles of Spain. Eighth to Fifteenth Century. New York 1957 [CSROT 939]; and Annemarie Seiler-Baldinger. Textiles. A Classification of Techniques. Washington, DC 1994 [CSROT x5092].

34. Gaston Migeon. Op. Cit. Paris 1909 [CSROT 271]; Heinrich Schmidt. Alte Seidenstoffe. Braunschweig 1958 [CSROT 360]; Agnes Geijer. A History of Textile Art. London 1982 [CSROT 596]; and Kax Wilson. A History of Textiles. Boulder Colorado 1979 [CSROT 1361], which contains an extensive bibliographic essay and reading list after each chapter.